Naptime Gnome Idea #30 Spring cleaning – Getting organized around the Bee hive.Does anyone else have a cupboard or closet that attacks whenever disturbed? Just about every storage space in my house has this tendency. So while I’ve pondered obedience … Continue reading
Naptime Gnome Idea #5
Which Common Household Cleaner Cleans Porcelain Coated Sinks Best?
I once spilled some Kirkland Brand dishwasher detergent, in doing, I somehow managed to ruin a pair of shoes, the kitchen rug and a rather cute shirt in moments, but in the time it took me to wipe up the mess, the dollop that assaulted the kitchen sink left a sparkling white signature! What magic is this? I could hardly be flustered by my ruined attire when faced with irrefutable evidence of its raw stain fighting potential! While I became much more careful in its handling, the dish washing detergent quickly became the favored stain treatment on hard-scape around the gnome kingdom! Even a rust stained sink, after weeks of apple processing was no match for The Naptime Gnome and her trusty sidekick Kirkland!
So in a quest to find the next great sink warrior, I put together the following pit match. Who will triumph? READ ON FAIR CITIZEN!
(It’s a bit of a wild hand, but it’s really what I had on hand when the idea struck)
- Cascade Advanced Power
- Soft Scrub with Bleach
- Lysol Toilet Cleaner with Bleach (I know, but the dishwasher detergent worked, why not!?)
- Hydrogen Peroxide (3%)/Baking Soda Paste (I love this one, great toothpaste in a jam and works wonders on carpet stains… SPOT TEST FIRST)
The sink was first mucked up with oodles and oodles of fruit processing rubbish, mostly apple bits, coring leftovers and skins.
- Then scrubbed clean (to the best of my greasy elbows’ abilities) with dish soap and a Scotch pad (we use Kirkland’s Eco-Friendly Liquid Dish Soap). The sink was dried and masked with painters tape to yield 4 sections, each to receive one cleaner, the taped off portions to act as controls.
- A thick paste was made using baking soda and household/pharmacy grade (3%) Hydrogen Peroxide (I used this same type of paste to whiten our bathroom counters, wanna see?).
- Then each of the four cleaners was smeared upon its own section of sink and let stand for 5 minutes.
- With tape still in place, the sections were individually wiped clean with a paper towel…
- …then rinsed. The tape was removed and the surfaces compared.
Cascade and Lysol where fairly ineffectual, while the Soft Scrub and Peroxide/Soda paste worked about the same – Soft Scrub leading by a narrow margin. I ended up cleaning the entire sink with the paste as I was about out of Soft Scrub.
|This image was compiled with strips from 4 successive photos.|
I would say over all, Soft Scrub worked marginally better than the Hydrogen Peroxide/baking soda (H2O2 + NaHCO3 in the pic), but if you are like me, and would prefer to have fewer harsh chemicals around, I’m a fan of the mixing of a weakly concentrated boo-boo treatment and a powder readily used in cookies and children’s science experiments! The best part is neither required ANY scrubbing! I used the paste on the white stove top next… with fantastic results! Next stop, tile grout – I’ll let you know!
The Naptime Gnome <;-)
Naptime Gnome Idea #2
Add a Custom Fabric Label Window to Just About Anything!
- Old jeans or other denim/stiff canvas material (cut-off legs from shorts, or old bits of canvas drop-cloth are great)
- Fabric to cover (here I used a felt backed vinyl tablecloth)
- Coordinating thread
- Straight pins
- Paper for labels
- Printer for printing labels (if your handwriting looks anything like mine!:) Optional
Making the Denim Form
1. Cut a rectangle of canvas about as large as the window you would like to make. About 3.5″ x 2.5″ is pretty standard. I went 3.25″ x 2.25″ because I wanted them to be a little smaller to better fit a wee-one’s world.
2. Fold in half (either landscape or portrait, doesn’t matter). Measure the width you would like the edge of the window to be (these are 1/2″ frames). Remember, that once you wrap the denim with fabric, it will be slightly wider, but the difference is only about 1/16″ – 1/8″ of an inch. Keeping the frame folded, mark the inner edge of the frame. Using three straight cuts, cut the upper, then lower line, then remove the center by cutting the third edge between them.
5. Mark the approximate center and inner corners with small dots. These will be your guides for cutting the inner portion of your cover fabric to make the “window.” I used dry-erase marker on this vinyl. You can use a pattern marker/pencil or a sliver of soap if using a darker fabric.
6. Fold the cover fabric diagonally and bite into it at a perpendicular angle with your scissors. This should be the beginning of your slit from the opposite or diagonally oriented marks. Carefully extend your cut to the dots on either side.
7. Insert the scissors halfway down the diagonal slit and cut to the remaining dots on either side, making an “X.” NOTE: DO NOT CUT BEYOND THE MARK. If you cut too far, the frame will be exposed underneath. You can always snip a bit more if you need to, but “you may never come back” (and if you didn’t hear that ethereal echo in the background, you may have to rent the movie “All Dogs Go to Heaven.”
9. Pull the triangular cut flaps up and outward to wrap the inner perimeter of the frame. Pin and repeat with each triangular flap. Flip over and inspect the corners, if the frame is fairly well covered… GREAT JOB! If any flaps look a bit loose, or the inner edges look uneven, one at a time, unpin the offending flaps, reposition, pin and continue.
11. Fold the flaps in to cover the outer perimeter of the form. If you are using a fabric that can be safely ironed, this would be an excellent place to whip out the iron, and simply press the folds as you make them to keep them crisp.
My vinyl would have shriveled into a little charred ball, so it took a little more effort to keep the edges looking crisp. To get nice square corners, I tried “gift wrapping” by making little triangular folds, but only resulted in bulky rounded corners. Ultimately, it was easiest to fold the flaps in on either side and pin.
THEN, doing the bottom and top, being careful to keep the folds tucked in. The next few steps outline this technique more clearly. So if you have clean corners, just skip to step 12.
11a. Fold the bottom (or top if you desire) flap, by first pinching the fold so the fabric doesn’t slide diagonally, then fold it directly up (or down if doing the top).
Stitch Into Place
12. Using your desired thread, top-stitch in place by sewing first around the outer edge. This makes it safe to remove your pins as you go, as the tips of your inner flaps should extend to your stitch. Then stitch your inner edge. I chose to stitch use an 1/8″ margin, but you can sew between 1/8″ and 1/16″ from the edge of your frame with a window this size.
Attach to Desired Object
13. Now that you have a beautiful little frame, you’ll need to attach it to something in need of organizing! You can attach by stitching into place by top-stitching (using a running stitch) right over the top of 3 of your outer stitch lines, or you can use glue, again, only on three sides. The open edge will allow you to slip in your tags. On this project I left the top open because the pack will usually be upright. But you could also put them on the side, which on some items may lay nicer.
NOTE: If gluing, be careful to use just a very thin line of glue along the VERY outer edge, so you will leave space for your label cards. If gluing to fabric, fabric glue, or fusing tape (if your fabric can be ironed) are probably your best bets, but you may want to use something a bit more substantial if you are gluing to paper, wood, plastic or metal. I’ve never had much luck with fabric glue bonding to anything but fabric, and of course, me. I’m a fan of the newer white and yellow glues: Titebond, Elmer’s Glue-All, and Liquid Nails (though this may be overkill! 🙂 always seem to get the job done. Stay away from Gorilla Glue or Super/Krazy Glue for this, as they tend to misbehave a bit with fabric, plus they make a big fat mess.
Design Designer Labels
14. Your labels should be slightly smaller than the space within your outer stitching perimeter, but bigger than the window so they don’t jump out. I’ve found a light cardstock or even printable business cards seem to stay put the best. Measure and establish your desired label size, about 1/4″ narrower and about a 1/4″ shorter than the outer stitched edge should do the trick.
15. You can hand write the labels and be done (YAY!), or you can print them using a word-processing or image creator/editor program.
16. Cut your labels to fit, slide in, stuff your box, basket, or other receptacle with ONLY what is printed on it. Harass mercilessly, any individual that does otherwise… or simply reorganize their sock drawer…
The Naptime Gnome
Crafty Gnome Key:
1 Crafty Gnome = Simple cutting, gluing, tracing, and/or painting, etc.
2 Crafty Gnomes = Any of the above, plus the use of a few tools, and may involve a sewing machine for some simple seams… nothing crazy.
3 Crafty Gnomes = Could require some practice with any of the above items, and/or could involve power tools (you’ll meet Burly Gnome soon enough)
4 Crafty Gnomes = Includes most or all of the above… A bear of a project or requires a bit of help.
5 Crafty Gnomes = Perhaps a bit sorry I attempted it.